Before starting work, please read these instructions from start to finish
These instructions are a guide only and are intended for someone with a reasonable knowledge of DIY.
There is more than one way to hang a rack, but the method described below helps to avoid the most common and troublesome mistake – drilling your screw holes in the wrong position.
If you are not completely confident in your skills or do not have the right tools, please employ a competent friend or professional to do the job for you.
Most small racks can be hung singlehanded (ie up to about 50cm). Larger racks may need a second pair of hands.
Supplied with your rack:
Screws & Rawlplugs
Power drill with ‘hammer action’ for drilling masonry
Size 7 masonry drill bit***
Large [6-inch] nail or similar marking tool. eg hand-held masonry punch
Large slotted screwdriver
Eye protectors & ear protectors
*** If Rawlplugs are grey, use Size 10 masonry drill bit
Step 1 – Decide where to hang your rack (NOTE: Do not hang your rack directly over
a radiator or close to any direct heat source as this may cause the wood to
dry out, possibly resulting in warping or splitting)
Step 2 – Hold rack in position and pass nail or other marking tool through one of the
fixing holes on right side of rack. Gently tap with hammer to mark 1st screw
Step 3 – Set rack aside and drill first hole – tap in raw plug. (NOTE: Never attempt to
drill into masonry through the ready-drilled fixing holes in your rack. This
will cause serious damage to the wood)
Step 4 – Hang rack by this 1st screw
Do not drive screw fully home - leave head protruding about 4mm
Step 5 – Set position of rack with spirit level. Mark remaining holes with marking tool
Step 6 – Before drilling remaining holes, remove rack from wall or have helper hold
rack well clear of drill
Step 7 – Carefully drive all screws home, taking care not to damage the screw heads
Step 8 – Stand back and admire!
Hooked on Hooks’ racks of hooks are intended for household use. Outbuildings, such as barns and garages would be acceptable environments, if they do not suffer extremes of temperature and humidity.
Wood is hygroscopic which means it absorbs water and moisture from the environment in which it is placed. For this reason, I do not recommend positioning your rack directly over a radiator or close to any direct source of heat. This could cause the wood to dry out, possibly leading to warping or splitting.
Kiln-dried wood is far more resistant to hygroscopy – air-dried wood may be more vulnerable, depending on how long it has been left to season. The majority of wood used for Hooked on Hooks’ racks is reclaimed, which means it has probably been around for many years, negating concerns over how it will respond to moisture and temperatures.
Plinths may have such markings as cracks, scuffs, knot holes, dents, old nail holes etc – which are all natural characteristic of reclaimed wood and all part of the character of Hooked on Hooks’ racks.
Most racks are finished with beeswax. The individual tag attached to your new rack will tell you what colour has been used (medium brown, dark brown etc). Beeswax is easy to apply, easy to revive. Apply with a soft cloth and/or soft bristled paint brush, leave for half an hour and buff with another soft cloth or brush.
Most of the hooks used on Hooked on Hooks’ racks are maintenance-free. Refer to the individual green tag attached to your rack to see the type of hook you have.
Cast Iron or Steel: Most reproduction hooks are powder coated – ‘to last forever’ –
and require no maintenance. Older hooks, especially when placed
in a damp environment, may attract surface rust. In the unlikely
event that this occurs, deposits can be easily removed with a
cloth, or fine wire wool. The surface can then be refinished or
brought back to ‘new’ using ordinary beeswax polish.
Brass or Copper: Most Hooked on Hooks’ brass and copper hooks are not
lacquered and will gradually take on a dark patina with time. (One
current exception is the reproduction, antique finish hook with
porcelain finials used on certain racks). If, of course, you prefer to
have your brass or copper polished, use a normal brass cleaning
product, taking care not to allow the polishing agent to come into
contact with the wood.